Ishishini lokudaya linengxaki
Kukho iingxaki ezininzi ngokudaywa kwelaphu kunye nezenzo zonyango, kwaye phantse zonke zinxulumene nosetyenziso lwamanzi olugqithisileyo kunye nongcoliseko.Ukudaywa komqhaphu kufuna amanzi kakhulu, njengoko kuqikelelwa ukuba ukudaya kunye nokugqiba kungasebenzisa malunga ne-125 yeelitha zamanzi ngekhilogram yemisonto yomqhaphu.Ukudaya akufuni kuphela amanzi amaninzi, kuxhomekeke kumthamo omkhulu wamandla ukutshisa amanzi kunye nomphunga oyimfuneko kwisiphelo esifunekayo.
Ngokumalunga ne-200,000 yeetoni zedayi (ezixabisa i-1 yezigidigidi ze-USD) zilahlekile kumanzi amdaka ngenxa yokungasebenzi kakuhle kokudaya kunye neenkqubo zokugqiba (Chequer et al., 2013).Oku kuthetha ukuba izenzo zangoku zokudaya azichithi nje kuphela izibonelelo kunye nemali, kodwa zikwakhupha imichiza eyityhefu kwimithombo yamanzi acocekileyo.I-60 ukuya kwi-80 yeepesenti yazo zonke iidayi ziyi-AZO idayi, ezininzi zazo ziyaziwa ngokuba yi-carcinogenic.I-Chlorobenzenes iqhele ukusetyenziselwa ukudaya i-polyester, kwaye iyityhefu xa ifakwe umoya okanye idibane ngqo nolusu.Iikhemikhali ze-perfluorinated, i-formaldehydes kunye ne-chlorinated parafini zisetyenziselwa ukugqiba iinkqubo zokwenza imiphumo yokungangeni kwamanzi okanye i-flame retardance, okanye ukudala amalaphu alula.
Njengoko ishishini limi namhlanje, ababoneleli beekhemikhali abafunwa ukuba banikeze zonke izithako ngaphakathi kwedayi.Ingxelo ka-2016 ye-KEMI yafumanisa ukuba phantse i-30% yeekhemikhali ezisetyenziswa ekwenzeni amalaphu kunye nokudaya yayiyimfihlo.Oku kuswela elubala kuthetha ukuba ababoneleli beekhemikhali banokusebenzisa izinto eziyityhefu kwiimveliso ezithi ke zingcolise imithombo yamanzi ngexesha lokwenziwa kwaye zenzakalise abo banxiba iimpahla ezigqityiweyo.
Siyazi ukuba isixa esikhulu seekhemikhali ezinokuba yityhefu zisetyenziselwa ukudaya iimpahla zethu, kodwa kukho ukunqongophala kolwazi kunye nokungafihli malunga neepropathi zazo ngokunxulumene nempilo yabantu kunye nokusingqongileyo.Ulwazi olunganelanga malunga neekhemikhali ezisetyenzisiweyo kungenxa yewebhu ehlulwe kunye neyinkimbinkimbi yokubonelela kunye nokuhanjiswa.I-80% yamatsheyini okubonelela ngempahla olulaphu ikhona ngaphandle kwe-United States kunye ne-EU, okwenza kube nzima koorhulumente ukulawula iindidi zeekhemikhali ezisetyenziswa kwiimpahla ezithengiswa ekhaya.
Njengoko abathengi abaninzi beyazi imiphumo eyingozi yeendlela zokudaya zangoku, ubugcisa obutsha benza indlela yokudaya engabizi kakhulu, eyonga izibonelelo kunye nezinzileyo.Ubuchule bobugcisa bokudaya buqala ukusuka kunyango lwangaphambili lomqhaphu, ukufakwa kwedayi yeCO2 ecinezelekileyo, kunye nokudala ii-pigments zendalo ezivela kwii-microbes.Ukuveliswa kokudaya kwangoku kunokunceda ukunciphisa ukusetyenziswa kwamanzi, ukubuyisela iindlela zokumosha kunye nezisebenzayo kunye neendleko ezifanelekileyo kunye nokuzama ukuguqula ngokupheleleyo indlela esenza ngayo i-pigments enika impahla yethu imibala emihle esiyithandayo.
Itekhnoloji engenamanzi yokudaya ngokuzinzileyo
Inkqubo yokudaya yempahla iyahluka ngokuxhomekeke kuhlobo lwelaphu.Ukudaya komqhaphu yinkqubo ende nangaphezulu yamanzi kunye nobushushu, ngenxa yomgangatho ombi wemicu yomqhaphu.Oku kuthetha ukuba ngokuqhelekileyo umqhaphu uthatha kuphela malunga ne-75% yedayi esetyenziswayo.Ukuqinisekisa ukuba umbala ubambekile, ilaphu elidayiweyo okanye umsonto uyahlanjwa kwaye ufudunyezwe ngokuphindaphindiweyo, ukuvelisa amanzi amaninzi amdaka.I-ColourZen isebenzisa itekhnoloji enelungelo elilodwa lomenzi wechiza ephatha umqhaphu kwangaphambili ngaphambi kokuba usongwe.Olu nyango lwangaphambili lwenza inkqubo yokudaya ikhawuleze, icuthe i-90% yokusetyenziswa kwamanzi, i-75% ngaphantsi kwamandla kunye ne-90% ngaphantsi kweekhemikhali ezinokuthi zifuneke ukudaywa okusebenzayo komqhaphu.
Ukudaya iifayibha zokwenziwa, ezifana nepolyester, yinkqubo emfutshane kunye ne-99% okanye ngaphezulu ukulungiswa kwedayi (i-99% yedayi esetyenzisiweyo ithathwa yilaphu).Nangona kunjalo, oku akuthethi ukuba izenzo zangoku zokudaya zizinzileyo.I-AirDye isebenzisa iidayi ezisasaziweyo ezifakwe kwi-carrier yephepha.Ngobushushu bodwa, i-AirDye idlulisela idayi ukusuka ephepheni ukuya kumphezulu we-textile.Le nkqubo yobushushu obuphezulu nemibala yedayi kwinqanaba lemolekyuli.Iphepha elisetyenziswayo linokurisayikilishwa, kwaye kusetyenziswe amanzi angaphantsi ngama-90%.Kwakhona, kusetyenziswa amandla angaphantsi ngama-85% ngenxa yokuba amalaphu akufuneki ukuba afakwe emanzini kwaye ubushushu bome ngokuphindaphindiweyo.
I-DyeCoo isebenzisa i-CO₂ ukudaya amalaphu kwinkqubo evaliweyo."Xa ucinezelekile, i-CO₂ iba yi-supercritical (SC-CO₂).Kulo mbuso i-CO₂ inamandla aphezulu kakhulu e-solvent, evumela idayi ukuba inyibilike ngokulula.Ngenxa yokungena okuphezulu, iidayi zithuthwa ngokulula nangokunzulu kwiintsinga, zenza imibala eqaqambileyo.I-DyeCoo ayifuni nawaphi na amanzi, kwaye basebenzisa iidayi ezicocekileyo kunye ne-98%.Inkqubo yabo igwema idayi engaphezulu kunye neekhemikhali ezinobunzima kwaye akukho manzi amdaka adalwa ngexesha lenkqubo.Baye bakwazi ukukhulisa le teknoloji kwaye baneemvumelwano zorhwebo ezivela kuzo zombini ii-mills zamalaphu kunye nabasebenzisi bokugqibela.
Ii-pigments ezivela kwii-microbes
Uninzi lweempahla esizinxibayo namhlanje zinemibala kusetyenziswa iidayi zokwenziwa.Ingxaki ngezi zinto kukuba izinto ezixabisekileyo zexabiso, ezifana neoyile ekrwada ziyafuneka ngexesha lemveliso kwaye imichiza eyongeziweyo iyityhefu kwindalo nakwimizimba yethu.Nangona iidayi zendalo zingeyotyhefu kangako kunedayi yokwenziwa, zisafuna umhlaba wokulima kunye nezibulali-zinambuzane kwizityalo ezenze idayi.
IiLebhu kwihlabathi liphela zifumanisa indlela entsha yokwenza umbala wempahla yethu: ibhaktheriya.I-Streptomyces coelicolor yintsholongwane etshintsha ngokwemvelo umbala ngokusekelwe kwi-pH ye-medium ekhula ngaphakathi.Ngokutshintsha indawo yayo, kunokwenzeka ukulawula ukuba luhlobo luni lombala oluba.Inkqubo yokudaya ngeebhaktheriya iqala ngokufaka i-autoclaving i-textile ukuthintela ukungcoliseka, emva koko ugalela i-medium liquid egcwele izondlo zebhaktheriya phezu kwe-textile kwi-container.Emva koko, i-textile efakwe emanzini ibonakaliswe kwiibhaktheriya kwaye ishiywe kwigumbi elilawulwa yimozulu iintsuku ezimbalwa.Ibhaktheriya "iphila idayi" izinto, okuthetha ukuba njengoko ibhaktheriya ikhula, idaya i-textile.I-textile ihlanjululwe kwaye ihlanjwe ngobumnene ukuhlamba iphunga le-bacterial medium, emva koko iyeke yome.Idayi zebhaktiriya zisebenzisa amanzi amancinci kunedayi eziqhelekileyo, kwaye zingasetyenziselwa ukudaya iipateni ezininzi ezahlukeneyo ngoluhlu olukhulu lwemibala.
I-Faber Future, i-lab esekwe e-UK, isebenzisa ibhayoloji yokwenziwa ukucwangcisa ibhaktheriya ukwenza uluhlu olukhulu lwemibala enokuthi isetyenziswe ukufaka imibala kwimicu yokwenziwa kunye neyendalo (kubandakanya umqhaphu).
Umbala oPhilayo yiprojekthi yoyilo lwebhayoloji esekwe eNetherlands ekwaphonononga amathuba okusebenzisa iibhaktheriya ezivelisa umbala ukufaka imibala kwiimpahla zethu.Ngo-2020, uMbala oPhilayo kunye ne-PUMA badityaniswa ukuze benze ingqokelela yemidlalo edaywe ngebhaktiriya yokuqala.
Ukuqala kokudaya okuzinzileyo kwinkqubo yethu yendalo
Iplagi kunye neDlala ikhangela ngenkuthalo itekhnoloji entsha enceda ukuqhuba utshintsho olufuneka kakhulu kushishino lokudaya.Siqhagamshela iziqalo ezintsha kunye nenethiwekhi yethu ebanzi yamaqabane eshishini, abacebisi, kunye nabatyali-mali.
Jonga ezinye zezona sibathandayo:
I-Werewool ithatha inkuthazo kwindalo ukuvelisa amalaphu amibalabala asuka kwiiproteni.Enye yezi proteni ivela kwiDiscosoma Coral evelisa umbala opinki oqaqambileyo.I-DNA yale proteni inokukopishwa kwaye ifakwe kwiibhaktheriya.Le bhaktiriya inokulukwa ibe yintsinga ukwenza ilaphu elinemibala.
Sisebenzisa iidayi ze-aRe SpinDye eziphinda zisetyenziswe kwiibhotile zamanzi zasemva komthengi okanye iimpahla ezilahliweyo phambi kokuba zisontelwe zibe ngumsonto.Ubuchwephesha babo bunyibilikisa ibala lemibala kunye nepolyester esetyenzisiweyo kunye ngaphandle kokusebenzisa amanzi, nto leyo enciphisa ukusetyenziswa kwamanzi xa iyonke ngama-75%.Kwiindaba zamva nje, i-H&M isebenzise inkqubo yokudaya ye-We aRe SpinDye® kwingqokelela yabo yeConscious Exclusive.
huue.yenza uzinzo, i-indigo ye-biosynthetic eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka elungiselelwe ishishini ledenim.Itekhnoloji yabo ayisebenzisi i-petroleum, i-cyanide, i-formaldehyde okanye i-agent yokunciphisa.Oku kuphelisa izixa ezikhulu zokungcoliseka kwamanzi.Endaweni yokusebenzisa imichiza eyityhefu, huue.usebenzisa iswekile ukwenza idayi.Basebenzisa itekhnoloji yobunini be-bioengineering ukwenza iintsholongwane ezibonisa inkqubo yendalo kwaye zitye iswekile ukuvelisa idayi nge-enzymatic.
Sisenomsebenzi ekufuneka siwenze
Ukuze ezi ziqalo zikhankanyiweyo kunye nobuchwepheshe buchume kwaye bunyuke bufikelele kwinqanaba lezorhwebo, kunyanzelekile ukuba siqhube utyalo-mali kunye nentsebenziswano phakathi kwezi nkampani zincinci, kunye neenkampani ezinkulu ezikhoyo zefashoni kunye neekhemikhali.
Akunakwenzeka ukuba itekhnoloji entsha ibe ziinketho ezinokubakho kwezoqoqosho eziya kuthi zithathwe ziimpawu zefashoni ngaphandle kotyalo-mali kunye nentsebenziswano.Intsebenziswano phakathi kwe-Living Color kunye ne-PUMA, okanye i-SpinDye® kunye ne-H & M zimbini nje kwiimbumbano ezininzi eziyimfuneko ekufuneka ziqhubeke ukuba iinkampani zizimisele ngokunyanisekileyo ekutshintsheni kwiindlela ezizinzileyo zokudaya ezigcina izixhobo ezixabisekileyo kwaye ziyeke ukungcolisa indalo.
Ixesha lokuposa: Mar-14-2022